Pengaruh Jejaring Sosial Terhadap Perilaku Remaja

Definisi Jejaring Sosial :

• Jejaring sosial adalah struktur sosial yang terdiri dari elemen-elemen individual atau organisasi. Jejaring ini menunjukan jalan dimana mereka berhubungan karena kesamaan sosialitas, mulai dari mereka yang dikenal sehari-hari sampai dengan keluarga. Istilah ini diperkenalkan oleh profesor J.A. Barnes di tahun 1954.

• Jejaring sosial adalah suatu struktur sosial yang dibentuk dari simpul-simpul (yang umumnya adalah individu atau organisasi) yang diikat dengan satu atau lebih tipe relasi spesifik seperti nilai, visi, ide, teman, keturunan, dll.

• Jejaring sosial sebenarnya bentuk baru komunitas di Internet yang saling terhubung dengan cepat. Ini berbeda dengan jejaring social lima tahun yang lalu yang mungkin lebih dikenal sebagai forum diskusi , chat, messenger atau milis dimana pola komunikasinya terbatas hanya dalam forum tersebut saja.

How to Pump

How to set up a rear shock

There are three main controls you’ll see on MTB suspension: preload, rebound, and compression. The latter is sometimes split into low- and high-speed compression on top-end shocks.

Preload

Preload is the resistance the fork gives against your weight. So the heavier you are, the more preload you’re going to need. For a shock with a coil spring this would equate to having a heavier, or thicker spring but for an air shock it’s simply a case of pumping in more pressure.

Compression damping

Compression damping comes from the internals of the shock and works by regulating the flow of oil through small holes. Compression damping only affects the shock when it’s compressing – this doesn’t affect the preload but can appear to have a similar effect on the rear suspension.
The more compression damping you dial in (+) the slower the fork will move through its travel. This

How to clean and lube mountain bike suspension in 2 mins 

 

Steve Peat

 
Steve Peat (born 17 June 1974 in Chapeltown, South Yorkshire), nicknamed "Sheffield Steel" or more commonly just plain "Peaty", is a professional downhill mountain biker who was born and lives in Chapeltown, Sheffield, England. Prior to his career as a professional downhill cyclist Peat was employed as a plumber by James Lamb. He is married to Adele Croxon and has two sons, Jake and George Peat.

3 Secret Grip Tips for Mountain Biking in Mud and Wet Conditions 

 

 

 

How to Ride Up Stairs on a Mountain Bike: The 4 Key Tips

How to build climbing Strength and Speed 

Here’s one simple way to build leg strength and speed for mountain bike climbs, and improve your climbing technique at the same time.
If you’re the type of mountain biker who is starting to find your toughest local climbs easier, then this tip is for you.
Rather than only becoming as strong and skilled as your trails need you to be, this tip helps you blast up the climbs and become better by making the climbs harder still.  All it takes is five or six rides over a two to three week period and you’ll have more climbing strength, speed and skill than ever before.
And this tips works.  Why?  Because this tip gives you no other choice but to become better!  And because…
- See more at: http://www.mtbtips.com/advanced-mountain-biking-tips/how-to-build-strength-and-speed-for-climbing-on-a-mountain-bike/#sthash.WVA6GKuo.dpuf

Here’s one simple way to build leg strength and speed for mountain bike climbs, and improve your climbing technique at the same time.
If you’re the type of mountain biker who is starting to find your toughest local climbs easier, then this tip is for you.
Rather than only becoming as strong and skilled as your trails need you to be, this tip helps you blast up the climbs and become better by making the climbs harder still.  All it takes is five or six rides over a two to three week period and you’ll have more climbing strength, speed and skill than ever before.
And this tips works.  Why?  Because this tip gives you no other choice but to become better!  And because…
Walking sucks
You usually pedal those tough local climbs, so if you’re tenacious enough you’ll still want to pedal to the top even though you know you’re using harder gears.  Remember, you might fail at your first few attempts, but that’s why it’s called a challenge!  Keep positive and keep at it.
How to Do It
Simply lock-out the easiest rear gear you currently use up your local tough and tricky climbs, so you can no longer choose that gear. Do this by adjusting your rear derailleur limit screw as shown in these step by step photos.
If you usually use first gear – the easiest rear gear – then remove it from selection to make your new easiest choice second gear.  If you usually use second rear gear, then adjust the limit screw to remove first and second from selection, so that your new easiest rear gear is third. And so on…
Simple.
But why physically lock-out?
Sure, instead of physically locking out gears you could just decide not to use them, but there’s still that temptation to shift to the easier gears when the going gets tough.
On the other hand, purposely locking out easier gears so you can’t use them requires a different mindset and level of commitment to the climb. Now, with your easy options gone you’re forced to think better if you want to make it to the top.  Every on-the-fly decision you make is now much more critical as you work to maximise your skill and strength.
Yes, maintaining momentum and traction and getting over obstacles will be harder…
But,
Focus on these Key Skills and you’ll succeed

Momentum is King – don’t attack the climb with all your might only to burn out before halfway, but do approach the climb with as much controllable momentum as possible.

Sure, the harder gearing will make the climbs more difficult initially, but that’s exactly the challenge you need.  Harder gears force you to ride faster to maintain traction.  And it’s that push for greater momentum that develops your new strength and speed, while at the same time fine-tuning your climbing technique.

Smooth pedaling – a ‘spinning’ yet smooth pedaling technique as shown in this video helps minimise wheel digging up loose climbs and avoids chain failure, while maximising momentum and continuous traction

Smooth shifting – make all gearshifts smooth like pudding, and avoid gearshifting at critical moments if it could cost you lost momentum or traction 22 Gear shifting Do’s and Don’ts

Traction – on super steep climbs use the ‘Chest and Nose’ technique to keep the front down and the rear gripping

Seated or unseated – whatever gets you to the top.  Either way, pedal strongly but smoothly and be ready to switch between seated and standing in an instant, if traction and the terrain allows.  If it’s steep and loose enough, like the Devil’s Doorstep in the video, pedaling off the seat won’t maintain the traction you need.

Look up the trail, not just in front – looking ahead up the trail allows you to anticipate your next move. Knowing what’s ahead in advance helps you choose the grippiest riding line

Pick and Pace – settle into a smooth pedaling rhythm quickly to maximise traction and keep your heart rate more stable.  Choose your 100% effort moments wisely.

Un-lock for race day – remember to ‘unlock’ the derailleur limit screw to revert back to full gear selection before your next mountain bike race, to keep your gear selection options open

  Super Tip – Mission impossible? Some climbs, particularly those with lots of obstacles or tree roots, will simply be too tough in harder gears. Have at least one attempt though, because you just might surprise yourself!

The Devil’s Doorstep
The video climb is STRAVA segment ‘Devil’s Doorstep’, a 24.5% average grade climb with side-angle (camber), using 2nd gear on an XTR 2 x 10 system – approx 3rd or 4th gear on a triple chainring system, using small chainring.
Will you get better?
Absolutely. By locking out the gear you usually use you give yourself no choice but to improve!  It may take five or six rides over a two to three week period for your body to adjust to the challenge, but it will happen.
Soon you’ll have more power, tenacity and skill to ride up those tough climbs faster than ever before.
- See more at: http://www.mtbtips.com/advanced-mountain-biking-tips/how-to-build-strength-and-speed-for-climbing-on-a-mountain-bike/#sthash.WVA6GKuo.dp

Here’s one simple way to build leg strength and speed for mountain bike climbs, and improve your climbing technique at the same time.
If you’re the type of mountain biker who is starting to find your toughest local climbs easier, then this tip is for you.
Rather than only becoming as strong and skilled as your trails need you to be, this tip helps you blast up the climbs and become better by making the climbs harder still.  All it takes is five or six rides over a two to three week period and you’ll have more climbing strength, speed and skill than ever before.
And this tips works.  Why?  Because this tip gives you no other choice but to become better!  And because…
Walking sucks
You usually pedal those tough local climbs, so if you’re tenacious enough you’ll still want to pedal to the top even though you know you’re using harder gears.  Remember, you might fail at your first few attempts, but that’s why it’s called a challenge!  Keep positive and keep at it.
How to Do It
Simply lock-out the easiest rear gear you currently use up your local tough and tricky climbs, so you can no longer choose that gear. Do this by adjusting your rear derailleur limit screw as shown in these step by step photos.
If you usually use first gear – the easiest rear gear – then remove it from selection to make your new easiest choice second gear.  If you usually use second rear gear, then adjust the limit screw to remove first and second from selection, so that your new easiest rear gear is third. And so on…
Simple.
But why physically lock-out?
Sure, instead of physically locking out gears you could just decide not to use them, but there’s still that temptation to shift to the easier gears when the going gets tough.
On the other hand, purposely locking out easier gears so you can’t use them requires a different mindset and level of commitment to the climb. Now, with your easy options gone you’re forced to think better if you want to make it to the top.  Every on-the-fly decision you make is now much more critical as you work to maximise your skill and strength.
Yes, maintaining momentum and traction and getting over obstacles will be harder…
But,
Focus on these Key Skills and you’ll succeed

Momentum is King – don’t attack the climb with all your might only to burn out before halfway, but do approach the climb with as much controllable momentum as possible.

Sure, the harder gearing will make the climbs more difficult initially, but that’s exactly the challenge you need.  Harder gears force you to ride faster to maintain traction.  And it’s that push for greater momentum that develops your new strength and speed, while at the same time fine-tuning your climbing technique.

Smooth pedaling – a ‘spinning’ yet smooth pedaling technique as shown in this video helps minimise wheel digging up loose climbs and avoids chain failure, while maximising momentum and continuous traction

Smooth shifting – make all gearshifts smooth like pudding, and avoid gearshifting at critical moments if it could cost you lost momentum or traction 22 Gear shifting Do’s and Don’ts

Traction – on super steep climbs use the ‘Chest and Nose’ technique to keep the front down and the rear gripping

Seated or unseated – whatever gets you to the top.  Either way, pedal strongly but smoothly and be ready to switch between seated and standing in an instant, if traction and the terrain allows.  If it’s steep and loose enough, like the Devil’s Doorstep in the video, pedaling off the seat won’t maintain the traction you need.

Look up the trail, not just in front – looking ahead up the trail allows you to anticipate your next move. Knowing what’s ahead in advance helps you choose the grippiest riding line

Pick and Pace – settle into a smooth pedaling rhythm quickly to maximise traction and keep your heart rate more stable.  Choose your 100% effort moments wisely.

Un-lock for race day – remember to ‘unlock’ the derailleur limit screw to revert back to full gear selection before your next mountain bike race, to keep your gear selection options open

  Super Tip – Mission impossible? Some climbs, particularly those with lots of obstacles or tree roots, will simply be too tough in harder gears. Have at least one attempt though, because you just might surprise yourself!

The Devil’s Doorstep
The video climb is STRAVA segment ‘Devil’s Doorstep’, a 24.5% average grade climb with side-angle (camber), using 2nd gear on an XTR 2 x 10 system – approx 3rd or 4th gear on a triple chainring system, using small chainring.
Will you get better?
Absolutely. By locking out the gear you usually use you give yourself no choice but to improve!  It may take five or six rides over a two to three week period for your body to adjust to the challenge, but it will happen.
Soon you’ll have more power, tenacity and skill to ride up those tough climbs faster than ever before.
- See more at: http://www.mtbtips.com/advanced-mountain-biking-tips/how-to-build-strength-and-speed-for-climbing-on-a-mountain-bike/#sthash.WVA6GKuo.dpuf

 

Here’s one simple way to build leg strength and speed for mountain bike climbs, and improve your climbing technique at the same time.
If you’re the type of mountain biker who is starting to find your toughest local climbs easier, then this tip is for you.
Rather than only becoming as strong and skilled as your trails need you to be, this tip helps you blast up the climbs and become better by making the climbs harder still.  All it takes is five or six rides over a two to three week period and you’ll have more climbing strength, speed and skill than ever before.
And this tips works.  Why?  Because this tip gives you no other choice but to become better!  And because…
Walking sucks
You usually pedal those tough local climbs, so if you’re tenacious enough you’ll still want to pedal to the top even though you know you’re using harder gears.  Remember, you might fail at your first few attempts, but that’s why it’s called a challenge!  Keep positive and keep at it.
How to Do It
Simply lock-out the easiest rear gear you currently use up your local tough and tricky climbs, so you can no longer choose that gear. Do this by adjusting your rear derailleur limit screw as shown in these step by step photos.
If you usually use first gear – the easiest rear gear – then remove it from selection to make your new easiest choice second gear.  If you usually use second rear gear, then adjust the limit screw to remove first and second from selection, so that your new easiest rear gear is third. And so on…
Simple.
But why physically lock-out?
Sure, instead of physically locking out gears you could just decide not to use them, but there’s still that temptation to shift to the easier gears when the going gets tough.
On the other hand, purposely locking out easier gears so you can’t use them requires a different mindset and level of commitment to the climb. Now, with your easy options gone you’re forced to think better if you want to make it to the top.  Every on-the-fly decision you make is now much more critical as you work to maximise your skill and strength.
Yes, maintaining momentum and traction and getting over obstacles will be harder…
But,
Focus on these Key Skills and you’ll succeed

Momentum is King – don’t attack the climb with all your might only to burn out before halfway, but do approach the climb with as much controllable momentum as possible.

Sure, the harder gearing will make the climbs more difficult initially, but that’s exactly the challenge you need.  Harder gears force you to ride faster to maintain traction.  And it’s that push for greater momentum that develops your new strength and speed, while at the same time fine-tuning your climbing technique.

Smooth pedaling – a ‘spinning’ yet smooth pedaling technique as shown in this video helps minimise wheel digging up loose climbs and avoids chain failure, while maximising momentum and continuous traction

Smooth shifting – make all gearshifts smooth like pudding, and avoid gearshifting at critical moments if it could cost you lost momentum or traction 22 Gear shifting Do’s and Don’ts

Traction – on super steep climbs use the ‘Chest and Nose’ technique to keep the front down and the rear gripping

Seated or unseated – whatever gets you to the top.  Either way, pedal strongly but smoothly and be ready to switch between seated and standing in an instant, if traction and the terrain allows.  If it’s steep and loose enough, like the Devil’s Doorstep in the video, pedaling off the seat won’t maintain the traction you need.

Look up the trail, not just in front – looking ahead up the trail allows you to anticipate your next move. Knowing what’s ahead in advance helps you choose the grippiest riding line

Pick and Pace – settle into a smooth pedaling rhythm quickly to maximise traction and keep your heart rate more stable.  Choose your 100% effort moments wisely.

Un-lock for race day – remember to ‘unlock’ the derailleur limit screw to revert back to full gear selection before your next mountain bike race, to keep your gear selection options open

  Super Tip – Mission impossible? Some climbs, particularly those with lots of obstacles or tree roots, will simply be too tough in harder gears. Have at least one attempt though, because you just might surprise yourself!

The Devil’s Doorstep
The video climb is STRAVA segment ‘Devil’s Doorstep’, a 24.5% average grade climb with side-angle (camber), using 2nd gear on an XTR 2 x 10 system – approx 3rd or 4th gear on a triple chainring system, using small chainring.
Will you get better?
Absolutely. By locking out the gear you usually use you give yourself no choice but to improve!  It may take five or six rides over a two to three week period for your body to adjust to the challenge, but it will happen.
Soon you’ll have more power, tenacity and skill to ride up those tough climbs faster than ever before.
- See more at: http://www.mtbtips.com/advanced-mountain-biking-tips/how-to-build-strength-and-speed-for-climbing-on-a-mountain-bike/#sthash.WVA6GKuo.dpuf

Here’s one simple way to build leg strength and speed for mountain bike climbs, and improve your climbing technique at the same time.
If you’re the type of mountain biker who is starting to find your toughest local climbs easier, then this tip is for you.
Rather than only becoming as strong and skilled as your trails need you to be, this tip helps you blast up the climbs and become better by making the climbs harder still.  All it takes is five or six rides over a two to three week period and you’ll have more climbing strength, speed and skill than ever before.
And this tips works.  Why?  Because this tip gives you no other choice but to become better!  And because…
Walking sucks
You usually pedal those tough local climbs, so if you’re tenacious enough you’ll still want to pedal to the top even though you know you’re using harder gears.  Remember, you might fail at your first few attempts, but that’s why it’s called a challenge!  Keep positive and keep at it.
How to Do It
Simply lock-out the easiest rear gear you currently use up your local tough and tricky climbs, so you can no longer choose that gear. Do this by adjusting your rear derailleur limit screw as shown in these step by step photos.
If you usually use first gear – the easiest rear gear – then remove it from selection to make your new easiest choice second gear.  If you usually use second rear gear, then adjust the limit screw to remove first and second from selection, so that your new easiest rear gear is third. And so on…
Simple.
But why physically lock-out?
Sure, instead of physically locking out gears you could just decide not to use them, but there’s still that temptation to shift to the easier gears when the going gets tough.
On the other hand, purposely locking out easier gears so you can’t use them requires a different mindset and level of commitment to the climb. Now, with your easy options gone you’re forced to think better if you want to make it to the top.  Every on-the-fly decision you make is now much more critical as you work to maximise your skill and strength.
Yes, maintaining momentum and traction and getting over obstacles will be harder…
But,
Focus on these Key Skills and you’ll succeed

Momentum is King – don’t attack the climb with all your might only to burn out before halfway, but do approach the climb with as much controllable momentum as possible.

Sure, the harder gearing will make the climbs more difficult initially, but that’s exactly the challenge you need.  Harder gears force you to ride faster to maintain traction.  And it’s that push for greater momentum that develops your new strength and speed, while at the same time fine-tuning your climbing technique.

Smooth pedaling – a ‘spinning’ yet smooth pedaling technique as shown in this video helps minimise wheel digging up loose climbs and avoids chain failure, while maximising momentum and continuous traction

Smooth shifting – make all gearshifts smooth like pudding, and avoid gearshifting at critical moments if it could cost you lost momentum or traction 22 Gear shifting Do’s and Don’ts

Traction – on super steep climbs use the ‘Chest and Nose’ technique to keep the front down and the rear gripping

Seated or unseated – whatever gets you to the top.  Either way, pedal strongly but smoothly and be ready to switch between seated and standing in an instant, if traction and the terrain allows.  If it’s steep and loose enough, like the Devil’s Doorstep in the video, pedaling off the seat won’t maintain the traction you need.

Look up the trail, not just in front – looking ahead up the trail allows you to anticipate your next move. Knowing what’s ahead in advance helps you choose the grippiest riding line

Pick and Pace – settle into a smooth pedaling rhythm quickly to maximise traction and keep your heart rate more stable.  Choose your 100% effort moments wisely.

Un-lock for race day – remember to ‘unlock’ the derailleur limit screw to revert back to full gear selection before your next mountain bike race, to keep your gear selection options open

  Super Tip – Mission impossible? Some climbs, particularly those with lots of obstacles or tree roots, will simply be too tough in harder gears. Have at least one attempt though, because you just might surprise yourself!

The Devil’s Doorstep
The video climb is STRAVA segment ‘Devil’s Doorstep’, a 24.5% average grade climb with side-angle (camber), using 2nd gear on an XTR 2 x 10 system – approx 3rd or 4th gear on a triple chainring system, using small chainring.
Will you get better?
Absolutely. By locking out the gear you usually use you give yourself no choice but to improve!  It may take five or six rides over a two to three week period for your body to adjust to the challenge, but it will happen.
Soon you’ll have more power, tenacity and skill to ride up those tough climbs faster than ever before.
- See more at: http://www.mtbtips.com/advanced-mountain-biking-tips/how-to-build-strength-and-speed-for-climbing-on-a-mountain-bike/#sthash.WVA6GKuo.dpuf

Here’s one simple way to build leg strength and speed for mountain bike climbs, and improve your climbing technique at the same time.
If you’re the type of mountain biker who is starting to find your toughest local climbs easier, then this tip is for you.
Rather than only becoming as strong and skilled as your trails need you to be, this tip helps you blast up the climbs and become better by making the climbs harder still.  All it takes is five or six rides over a two to three week period and you’ll have more climbing strength, speed and skill than ever before.
And this tips works.  Why?  Because this tip gives you no other choice but to become better!  And because…
Walking sucks
You usually pedal those tough local climbs, so if you’re tenacious enough you’ll still want to pedal to the top even though you know you’re using harder gears.  Remember, you might fail at your first few attempts, but that’s why it’s called a challenge!  Keep positive and keep at it.
How to Do It
Simply lock-out the easiest rear gear you currently use up your local tough and tricky climbs, so you can no longer choose that gear. Do this by adjusting your rear derailleur limit screw as shown in these step by step photos.
If you usually use first gear – the easiest rear gear – then remove it from selection to make your new easiest choice second gear.  If you usually use second rear gear, then adjust the limit screw to remove first and second from selection, so that your new easiest rear gear is third. And so on…
Simple.
But why physically lock-out?
Sure, instead of physically locking out gears you could just decide not to use them, but there’s still that temptation to shift to the easier gears when the going gets tough.
On the other hand, purposely locking out easier gears so you can’t use them requires a different mindset and level of commitment to the climb. Now, with your easy options gone you’re forced to think better if you want to make it to the top.  Every on-the-fly decision you make is now much more critical as you work to maximise your skill and strength.
Yes, maintaining momentum and traction and getting over obstacles will be harder…
But,
Focus on these Key Skills and you’ll succeed

Momentum is King – don’t attack the climb with all your might only to burn out before halfway, but do approach the climb with as much controllable momentum as possible.

Sure, the harder gearing will make the climbs more difficult initially, but that’s exactly the challenge you need.  Harder gears force you to ride faster to maintain traction.  And it’s that push for greater momentum that develops your new strength and speed, while at the same time fine-tuning your climbing technique.

Smooth pedaling – a ‘spinning’ yet smooth pedaling technique as shown in this video helps minimise wheel digging up loose climbs and avoids chain failure, while maximising momentum and continuous traction

Smooth shifting – make all gearshifts smooth like pudding, and avoid gearshifting at critical moments if it could cost you lost momentum or traction 22 Gear shifting Do’s and Don’ts

Traction – on super steep climbs use the ‘Chest and Nose’ technique to keep the front down and the rear gripping

Seated or unseated – whatever gets you to the top.  Either way, pedal strongly but smoothly and be ready to switch between seated and standing in an instant, if traction and the terrain allows.  If it’s steep and loose enough, like the Devil’s Doorstep in the video, pedaling off the seat won’t maintain the traction you need.

Look up the trail, not just in front – looking ahead up the trail allows you to anticipate your next move. Knowing what’s ahead in advance helps you choose the grippiest riding line

Pick and Pace – settle into a smooth pedaling rhythm quickly to maximise traction and keep your heart rate more stable.  Choose your 100% effort moments wisely.

Un-lock for race day – remember to ‘unlock’ the derailleur limit screw to revert back to full gear selection before your next mountain bike race, to keep your gear selection options open

  Super Tip – Mission impossible? Some climbs, particularly those with lots of obstacles or tree roots, will simply be too tough in harder gears. Have at least one attempt though, because you just might surprise yourself!

The Devil’s Doorstep
The video climb is STRAVA segment ‘Devil’s Doorstep’, a 24.5% average grade climb with side-angle (camber), using 2nd gear on an XTR 2 x 10 system – approx 3rd or 4th gear on a triple chainring system, using small chainring.
Will you get better?
Absolutely. By locking out the gear you usually use you give yourself no choice but to improve!  It may take five or six rides over a two to three week period for your body to adjust to the challenge, but it will happen.
Soon you’ll have more power, tenacity and skill to ride up those tough climbs faster than ever before.
- See more at: http://www.mtbtips.com/advanced-mountain-biking-tips/how-to-build-strength-and-speed-for-climbing-on-a-mountain-bike/#sthash.WVA6GKuo.dpuf

Here’s one simple way to build leg strength and speed for mountain bike climbs, and improve your climbing technique at the same time.
If you’re the type of mountain biker who is starting to find your toughest local climbs easier, then this tip is for you.
Rather than only becoming as strong and skilled as your trails need you to be, this tip helps you blast up the climbs and become better by making the climbs harder still.  All it takes is five or six rides over a two to three week period and you’ll have more climbing strength, speed and skill than ever before.
And this tips works.  Why?  Because this tip gives you no other choice but to become better!  And because…
Walking sucks
You usually pedal those tough local climbs, so if you’re tenacious enough you’ll still want to pedal to the top even though you know you’re using harder gears.  Remember, you might fail at your first few attempts, but that’s why it’s called a challenge!  Keep positive and keep at it.
How to Do It
Simply lock-out the easiest rear gear you currently use up your local tough and tricky climbs, so you can no longer choose that gear. Do this by adjusting your rear derailleur limit screw as shown in these step by step photos.
If you usually use first gear – the easiest rear gear – then remove it from selection to make your new easiest choice second gear.  If you usually use second rear gear, then adjust the limit screw to remove first and second from selection, so that your new easiest rear gear is third. And so on…
Simple.
But why physically lock-out?
Sure, instead of physically locking out gears you could just decide not to use them, but there’s still that temptation to shift to the easier gears when the going gets tough.
On the other hand, purposely locking out easier gears so you can’t use them requires a different mindset and level of commitment to the climb. Now, with your easy options gone you’re forced to think better if you want to make it to the top.  Every on-the-fly decision you make is now much more critical as you work to maximise your skill and strength.
Yes, maintaining momentum and traction and getting over obstacles will be harder…
But,
Focus on these Key Skills and you’ll succeed

Momentum is King – don’t attack the climb with all your might only to burn out before halfway, but do approach the climb with as much controllable momentum as possible.

Sure, the harder gearing will make the climbs more difficult initially, but that’s exactly the challenge you need.  Harder gears force you to ride faster to maintain traction.  And it’s that push for greater momentum that develops your new strength and speed, while at the same time fine-tuning your climbing technique.

Smooth pedaling – a ‘spinning’ yet smooth pedaling technique as shown in this video helps minimise wheel digging up loose climbs and avoids chain failure, while maximising momentum and continuous traction

Smooth shifting – make all gearshifts smooth like pudding, and avoid gearshifting at critical moments if it could cost you lost momentum or traction 22 Gear shifting Do’s and Don’ts

Traction – on super steep climbs use the ‘Chest and Nose’ technique to keep the front down and the rear gripping

Seated or unseated – whatever gets you to the top.  Either way, pedal strongly but smoothly and be ready to switch between seated and standing in an instant, if traction and the terrain allows.  If it’s steep and loose enough, like the Devil’s Doorstep in the video, pedaling off the seat won’t maintain the traction you need.

Look up the trail, not just in front – looking ahead up the trail allows you to anticipate your next move. Knowing what’s ahead in advance helps you choose the grippiest riding line

Pick and Pace – settle into a smooth pedaling rhythm quickly to maximise traction and keep your heart rate more stable.  Choose your 100% effort moments wisely.

Un-lock for race day – remember to ‘unlock’ the derailleur limit screw to revert back to full gear selection before your next mountain bike race, to keep your gear selection options open

  Super Tip – Mission impossible? Some climbs, particularly those with lots of obstacles or tree roots, will simply be too tough in harder gears. Have at least one attempt though, because you just might surprise yourself!

The Devil’s Doorstep
The video climb is STRAVA segment ‘Devil’s Doorstep’, a 24.5% average grade climb with side-angle (camber), using 2nd gear on an XTR 2 x 10 system – approx 3rd or 4th gear on a triple chainring system, using small chainring.
Will you get better?
Absolutely. By locking out the gear you usually use you give yourself no choice but to improve!  It may take five or six rides over a two to three week period for your body to adjust to the challenge, but it will happen.
Soon you’ll have more power, tenacity and skill to ride up those tough climbs faster than ever before.
- See more at: http://www.mtbtips.com/advanced-mountain-biking-tips/how-to-build-strength-and-speed-for-climbing-on-a-mountain-bike/#sthash.WVA6GKuo.dpuf

Here’s one simple way to build leg strength and speed for mountain bike climbs, and improve your climbing technique at the same time.
If you’re the type of mountain biker who is starting to find your toughest local climbs easier, then this tip is for you.
Rather than only becoming as strong and skilled as your trails need you to be, this tip helps you blast up the climbs and become better by making the climbs harder still.  All it takes is five or six rides over a two to three week period and you’ll have more climbing strength, speed and skill than ever before.
And this tips works.  Why?  Because this tip gives you no other choice but to become better!  And because…
Walking sucks
You usually pedal those tough local climbs, so if you’re tenacious enough you’ll still want to pedal to the top even though you know you’re using harder gears.  Remember, you might fail at your first few attempts, but that’s why it’s called a challenge!  Keep positive and keep at it.
How to Do It
Simply lock-out the easiest rear gear you currently use up your local tough and tricky climbs, so you can no longer choose that gear. Do this by adjusting your rear derailleur limit screw as shown in these step by step photos.
If you usually use first gear – the easiest rear gear – then remove it from selection to make your new easiest choice second gear.  If you usually use second rear gear, then adjust the limit screw to remove first and second from selection, so that your new easiest rear gear is third. And so on…
Simple.
But why physically lock-out?
Sure, instead of physically locking out gears you could just decide not to use them, but there’s still that temptation to shift to the easier gears when the going gets tough.
On the other hand, purposely locking out easier gears so you can’t use them requires a different mindset and level of commitment to the climb. Now, with your easy options gone you’re forced to think better if you want to make it to the top.  Every on-the-fly decision you make is now much more critical as you work to maximise your skill and strength.
Yes, maintaining momentum and traction and getting over obstacles will be harder…
But,
Focus on these Key Skills and you’ll succeed

Momentum is King – don’t attack the climb with all your might only to burn out before halfway, but do approach the climb with as much controllable momentum as possible.

Sure, the harder gearing will make the climbs more difficult initially, but that’s exactly the challenge you need.  Harder gears force you to ride faster to maintain traction.  And it’s that push for greater momentum that develops your new strength and speed, while at the same time fine-tuning your climbing technique.

Smooth pedaling – a ‘spinning’ yet smooth pedaling technique as shown in this video helps minimise wheel digging up loose climbs and avoids chain failure, while maximising momentum and continuous traction

Smooth shifting – make all gearshifts smooth like pudding, and avoid gearshifting at critical moments if it could cost you lost momentum or traction 22 Gear shifting Do’s and Don’ts

Traction – on super steep climbs use the ‘Chest and Nose’ technique to keep the front down and the rear gripping

Seated or unseated – whatever gets you to the top.  Either way, pedal strongly but smoothly and be ready to switch between seated and standing in an instant, if traction and the terrain allows.  If it’s steep and loose enough, like the Devil’s Doorstep in the video, pedaling off the seat won’t maintain the traction you need.

Look up the trail, not just in front – looking ahead up the trail allows you to anticipate your next move. Knowing what’s ahead in advance helps you choose the grippiest riding line

Pick and Pace – settle into a smooth pedaling rhythm quickly to maximise traction and keep your heart rate more stable.  Choose your 100% effort moments wisely.

Un-lock for race day – remember to ‘unlock’ the derailleur limit screw to revert back to full gear selection before your next mountain bike race, to keep your gear selection options open

  Super Tip – Mission impossible? Some climbs, particularly those with lots of obstacles or tree roots, will simply be too tough in harder gears. Have at least one attempt though, because you just might surprise yourself!

The Devil’s Doorstep
The video climb is STRAVA segment ‘Devil’s Doorstep’, a 24.5% average grade climb with side-angle (camber), using 2nd gear on an XTR 2 x 10 system – approx 3rd or 4th gear on a triple chainring system, using small chainring.
Will you get better?
Absolutely. By locking out the gear you usually use you give yourself no choice but to improve!  It may take five or six rides over a two to three week period for your body to adjust to the challenge, but it will happen.
Soon you’ll have more power, tenacity and skill to ride up those tough climbs faster than ever before.
- See more at: http://www.mtbtips.com/advanced-mountain-biking-tips/how-to-build-strength-and-speed-for-climbing-on-a-mountain-bike/#sthash.WVA6GKuo.dpuf

How to climb roots on a mountain bike in 3 easy steps 

 Learn how to climb roots on a mountain bike in 3 easy steps using the rarely-told Saddle Stop mountain bike climbing technique. You'll climb over uphill roots, ledges, rocks and logs with more speed, traction and control than you ever thought possible.

 

How to ride rock gardens in 6 Easy steps

 

UCI MTB World Cup 2014 Recap :

 

TOP 10 Downhill Bikes

How To Manual Your Bike Like A Pro 

 Manualling a mountain bike is a really useful skill to get you out of trouble.

 

MTB components

Mountain bike sizing: what size bike do I need?

Use our guide to help you determine your perfect size of mountain bike.

Mountain bike sizing: what size bike do I need?

Use our guide to help you determine your perfect size of mountain bike.

Choosing the correct size of bike is one of the most important decisions you'll make. Don't buy until you've read our advice so you can get the perfect mountain bike set-up for maximum comfort and a reduced chance of injury.

A bike that fits correctly is a joy to ride, while one that's too small can cause handling problems and be uncomfortable on longer rides. Read on for some advice on what frame size to go for, especially if you're in any doubt about it.
We all come in different shapes and sizes, so we recommend using the information below as a starting point and a guide. This diagram will help explain the anatomy of a mountain bike.

 How to set up your suspension fork

Most suspension forks will have a set of dials that allow you to adjust how they work.

Getting these settings correct is essential to maintaining your fork's performance and ensuring you have the most comfortable ride possible.

Suspension fork controls

There are three main controls you’ll see on mountain bike suspension: preload, rebound, and compression, which is sometimes split into low-speed and high-speed compression on high-end forks.

Preload

Preload is the resistance the fork gives against your weight. So the heavier you are, the more preload you’ll need. For a fork with a coil spring, this would equate to having a stiffer spring, but for an air fork it’s simply a case of pumping in more pressure.

Greg Minnaar

Greg Minnaar (born 13 November 1981 in Pietermaritzburg) is a South African World Champion mountain bike racer competing in downhill cycling. He competes in the NORBA and Mountain Bike World Cup points series races, in the Elite Downhill and Four Cross events.

 Career

How to wheelie a mountain bike 

 

How to Bunny Hop :                                      

Jumping both wheels off the ground at once will help you out of some tight jams and over many obstacles – whether you’re in the forest or the city.





Steps:
1. Start out by trying to hop over a line on the ground, then move to a thin stick and progress from there.
2. Keep your cranks horizontal.
3. Angle the toes of your back foot toward the ground and keep your knees bent. This position looks similar to a sprinter crouching in the blocks.
4. Lean your upper body over the handlebars and keep your weight centered. (Image 1)

How to Use SPD Cycling Clips

Clipless pedals are sometimes referred to as clipping in because they use a special cleat attached to the sole of a cycling specific shoe to clip into a pedal. Clipless pedals help a rider directly transfer energy from the foot to the pedal, and the adjustable cleats can help a rider maintain proper alignment and avoid injury. SPD or Shimano Pedalling Dynamic was introduced by Shimano as a smaller cleat that fits into the recessed part of a cycling shoe, allowing for increased mobility for walking on the shoe. The pedal is available in both road and mountain bike styles.

Step 1

Install the bike cleats that are included with the pedals. Notice that each cleat has an arrow on it. This should be installed with the arrow facing the top or toe of the shoe.

How to

Downhill Elementary:
Jumps and Drops

Are you scared of jumping? There’s a good reason for it.
There’s always a mental barrier. It’s called self-preservation. It’s always better to show a little respect than breaking your skull. You can improve your skill either by practicing on smaller jumps or by watching better bikers riding them. The best is to do both. So let’s go!

1) How to drop

First of all you have to choose the right speed. Speed is one of the most important aspects of a drop. The faster you go, the less effort it will cost you. But never overshoot! It’s better to see someone else nailing the drop. Approach the drop at exactly the same speed as the more experienced guy. Soon you’ll learn to judge the speed by yourselves.

How to

Downhill Elementary: Obstacles

Many times, it is easier to go over an obstacle than around it. Adding this move to your skill range expands your options when you need to make a split second decision. Also, it can save your bones for damage.

1. Front wheel over the obstacle

These instructions work well for objects less than half a meter tall. Approach the obstacle at medium speed in the attack position (knees bent, elbows out, butt off the saddle). Start your move at a distance equal to the obstacle. If it’s half a meter high, the right moment is about the same distance in front of it.

How to

Downhill Elementary:
Turns

Corners are important! Get them right and everything becomes easier. Fail to master them and everything on the trail will be harder.

We’ll learn how to go through flat corners and bermed ones. When you take these techniques out on the trail, remember that practice makes perfect. If you’re lucky enough to have a trail network or bike park near to you, get out there and ride as much as you can. You’ll soon build up your skills and before you know it, you’ll be carving like a pro.

1. Flat Turns

The first step is a flat turn. Braking is required before you start the turn, there is only a limited amount of grip available to the tyres at any one time. Braking whilst turning leaves less grip for the tyres to get you around the corner. Brake smoothly, release the lever gently to help stabilize the bike before turning. This gives better cornering control. Leaning the bike into the corner will help it to turn. But how?

Turning

How to

Downhill Elementary:
Steep Slopes

A steep downhill can look forbidding, but it is easier to ride than to walk down because feet slip and don’t have brakes. Once you are on a bike, you have technology on your side.

With steep descents, the hardest thing is to overcome your own fear. The key moment is when the front wheel crosses the edge. You must move your weight all the way behind the saddle to the rear wheel. You also need a light hand on the brake and a straight riding line that will help you to keep the handlebars square.